Seeing as there's not much of a market for holidays in which all of the hoteliers are financing militias with their earnings, as a general rule, travel writers don't go to Goma. Or Bukavu. But Christopher Vourlias did, and he just finished publishing a beautiful, 24-part series that captures what life is like in Rwanda and the border cities of the eastern DRC. I spent the last month reading the posts at night just before going to sleep. They made me sad and glad homesick all at once. It's well worth your time to work your way through his narratives. Start here.